Not long after dawn in the Okavango Delta near Seronga, Botswana. It's already in the 90-degree range and we're on our way to a morning game-viewing hike. The poler of my mekoro is named James, and he just plucked this night-blooming lily from the water. This flower is so big that I could hear VH1. Its stem is as thick and rubbery as a garden hose.

The Delta, a vast flood basin, is one of the last wild places on earth. Pretty soon, it'll be all Hiltons and Pizza Huts. My brand of tourism was not so damaging, though; we were there for several days and I went in without any soap. If you lean close to your monitor, you can smell me.

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